My last week in San Francisco was with Ann
That in itself is enough for gratitude…but wow, what a week. I’m letting Ann’s own words tell the story of what we did together. This is from her trip email:
“In advance of all of the “How was your trip?” questions, and really as a way of remembering it for myself (which releases all of you from actually reading this!), I had an AMAZING time in San Francisco! Edmond and I could have hardly packed more in to four days!
The first night I arrived, we crossed the Bay Bridge into the city and spotted the triangular TransAmerica Building right away — one of those pinch me moments when I knew I was in SF. We ate at The Stinkin’ Rose (a garlic restaurant — and they weren’t kidding) and planned the next day at Muir Woods!
We began day one with a quick stop at the Golden Gate Bridge and Sailor’s Memorial, which was really cool! The day was full of fog, so SF was not entirely visible, but the fog actually made it a beautiful view. I have never seen such a unique city — the combination of those insane hills, Victorian architecture, bay windows EVERYWHERE, and tropical plants was something completely new.
Muir Woods was, well, words fail, don’t they?
Redwoods.
REALLY tall trees! Misty day — spooky! — the exact 100 year anniversary of the National Monument. Edmond has had a tendency to stay in the redwood forests a bit late (past dark), so we discussed at length the fast-running zombies, mountain lions (both of whom do NOT stay on the trail), serial killers (who DO stay on the trail), and carnivorous trees that dwell in the forest after dark (after 1400 years of consuming only sunlight, wouldn’t YOU be hungry for something else?). This conversation ceased to amuse when the very real possibility of Harry Potteresque giant spiders was raised. Also, we ran into a verified serial killer (hooded, scared us twice, reluctant to say hello–clearly a serial killer!) on our return to the parking lot — made it out alive, all is well! We hiked 6.5 miles in 5 hours, saw the ocean, and still had time to buy silly souvenirs!
We got back to Edmond’s home near the Castro district, visited his favorite comic book shop (of course — new Buffy!), and ate a lovely dinner at Blue.
Day Two was raining, so we spent it knocking around the city itself. We began this second day the same way we began the first - with ham and cheese croissants as big as my head from Tartine’s Bakery. We then: drove around the Presidio & fabulous hilly streets of SF (clearly these people do not have to worry about snow and ice!), including the curvy Lombard Street, Fisherman’s Wharf (”Craptastic”) and the sea lions at Pier 39, Ghirardelli Square (Yes, I have gifts!), Golden Gate Park (Japanese Tea Gardens, de Young Museum—artwork so subversive we left immediately), shopping in Union Square, and a Cable Car ride (complete with standing and hanging off of the side, just like in every Rice a Roni commercial you’ve ever seen)!! We went home and collapsed.
Day Three was finally sunny!! We drove to the coast — did the 17-Mile Drive from Monterey to Carmel and argued over which 30 - 60 million dollar home we would claim. We first stopped at the Monterey Aquarium to see the sea otters and the jellyfish — they have an amazing jellyfish display. Beautiful! The sea otters showed up again — in the actual ocean!! — as we stopped to look in tidal pools for starfish. We also saw plenty of seals in the crashing waves, the Lone Cypress tree, and Pebble Beach. We raced home through Friday night traffic to have dinner at the…(drum roll)…
Top of the Mark! Fabulous! Very cosmopolitan and excellent views of the city from the 19th floor of the Mark Hopkins Hotel, where GIs in WWII went to have a drink and their wives and sweethearts went to watch them ship out under the Golden Gate. A very San Franciscan thing… My favorite moment of the entire trip came at the end of this night. A rollercoaster cab ride home at what must have been nearly 60 miles an hour through the hilly streets of SF in which all four tires left the pavement at least twice. I was overcome with giggles—I mean hysterics, yet Edmond attempted to remain stoic and normal amidst the insanity! Hilarious!
Well, as if there was anything left to do…our final day was today. I walked around the Castro in the morning — where else can one cross the street next to a drag queen dressed as Cher at 11 am on a Saturday morning (as well as a matador, which I remain powerless to explain)? We then visited Twin Peaks to view the city. We stopped by the Golden Gate Bridge again. It is truly a beautiful bridge — as Edmond proved by taking 43 pictures. Another sunny day, so our pix are much better. We climbed to the summit of Mount Tamalpais to watch the sunset and had 360 degree views of the planet. The mist floating through the mountains on one side, San Francisco on another, and the Pacific right in front of us (complete with a view of Shark Island – the world’s largest breeding ground for Great White Sharks, which just happens to sit in a direct line not far off shore from Stinson Beach, the most popular surfing beach in town). Just not something one can find in the midwest, eh?
We then ate a perfect dinner at Caffe DiVino’s in Sausalito — and I mean perfect. The tiramisu was the most loving, delicate, sensual experience I’ve had in a long time! (Edmond said, “This is so good I expect it to call me in the morning.” And I was doing very inappropriate things to my spoon — WHAT was in that stuff?!!?) And if that was not a perfect day, we then went to a San Franciscan institution — BEACH BLANKET BABYLON. Where else can you watch a musical review in which Snow White is transformed into Madonna by the Queer Eye guys in order to marry Elvis? Or see Nancy Pelosi argue in song with Dick Cheney to the Dreamgirls soundtrack? Al Gore singing “We’re Having a Heat Wave” with the Happy Feet Penguin? Hilarious! The hats were ten feet high! A must see…
So now, we go to bed and dream of orgasmic tiramisu, carnivorous redwoods, and Pacific sunsets. This is truly a beautiful city and I hope I get to return. And our drive home begins in the morning. Think warm, dry and sunny thoughts all along Route 80 for us and see you all soon!”